![]() ![]() The sollution is quite simple, just replace the "wheel/FFB-files" with the F122 or replace the files with the "release"-files of F123 and start from scratch. EA somehow will blame the wheel-developers/producers, while I have no issue at all at other racegames. Its not an issue created by Thrustmaster nor Logitech, its a file that has been written wrongly. Why does it take so long to fix this issue? Why does have every F1 game huge and unplayable issues at release ? And its not only happening with the T300.but also with the Logitech-wheels. At this point they are losing their playerbase, due to this issue. I have the same issue and thats also the reason why I refuse to play F123 anymore. It would be amazing if the CODIES and EA will use the INGAME-Drivers of F1 22, these worked atleast while using the T300. Information and Announcements about EA Play.Information, Guides and Announcements for the EA app. ![]() ![]() For that reason I'd avoid sticking to one number, use the vehicle specific as just that and check using whatever method you find easiest (telemetry, …). This is very dependent on the car, sometimes I need to drop down to 0.70 or even 0.65, while other cars are barely hitting maximum with 1.10 or 1.15. If there is a danger of burning out the motor with excessive forces clipping will only make it worse by continuing for periods at full output instead of only peaking there. So in that regard I agree on the 100% if you want strong forces, and I use the same on my T500, but being careful to avoid clipping. (but it doesn't exclusively test this either, so I don't pay much attention to its results) Probably shouldn't entirely dismiss the effect of current speed on output force though, and I guess that's where wheelcheck might be a bit more relevant. Depends what you're looking for of course I think the levels at 1.0 produce some clipping but on cheap wheels it keeps the overall strength quite high, which feels better than weak forces that don't clip at I know the test you're referring to, and I think it definitely should be considered because a lot of the time the force you actually feel is a static force, or a low-speed force, and in that scenario I think pretty much every wheel will output force in a linear relationship with the input value from the game/PC - it's a function of electric motors. > Do you have a source, because I did not find anything on the French web and also on the English web ?Ĭlick to expand.Your wheel software can't un-clip the output, so 1.0 in rF2 will be clipping in a lot of cars. I said that my T300 is brand new and in good condition, I tested a brand new just before this purchase, and it was the same.īy cons what interests me is what you said about the deterioration of the T300 when it is 100% : With these settings I know that I have a little clipping, but I assume, I prefer to have a little clipping that to have a steering wheel too weak, when we do not have the financial means, it is better find a compromise rather than erase those sensations.Īll I wanted was the equivalent of the T500, and only these values allow it. If I leave the standard values, the T300 is just a toy, really a toy, much less powerful than a G27 I had. The equivalent to have the same strength as with the T500 and the parameters given above is for the T300 (approximately) : OVERALL FORCE in the Thrustmaster control panel at 100% (75% is the standard value) associated with a multi-ingame FFB of 1.3 for most cars on RF2. On the majority of cars on RF2 the OVERALL FORCE in the Thrustmaster control panel was on the standard value (60%), associated ingame has a multi FFB of 1. I changed to the T300 thinking it was "approximately" the same strength with at least the same quality :īut not at all it's day and night, really ! Before I had a T500, and the FFB strength was perfect for me. ![]()
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